Cottonwood House Historic Site

Written By Loretta Fogarty

INTRODUCTION

With the California gold rush fading in 1857, a steady influx of miners arrived at Fort Victoria as the news of gold discoveries in the British Territory of New Caledonia (now British Columbia) leaked out.  By 1858, the Fraser River Gold Rush had begun and news spread to San Francisco and the world.

Through the urging of James Douglas, the appointed Governor, the British colonial office established the mainland as a crown colony and by August 2, 1858, it became the Colony of British Columbia. With the news of gold discoveries in the Cariboo spreading around the world, the influx of pack trains with supplies and people was the impetus to build a wagon road 400 miles (640 kilometres) in length, which was started in May of 1862, by the Royal Engineers. The Cariboo Wagon Road was completed in 1865 when it arrived at its final destination in Barkerville.

Along the Cariboo Wagon Road were many roadhouses providing shelter, and food to the travellers. All but a few of the roadhouses fell into the dust of the Cariboo Road over time, but one of those able to survive, even after the height of the gold rush, was Cottonwood House, built in 1864. This is a story of Cottonwood House, celebrating its 160-year anniversary in 2024.

THE CARIBOO GOLD RUSH

The Cottonwood River Valley contains one of the last tracts of fertile land before arriving at the Cariboo goldfields in Barkerville. Large areas of valuable pasture land can be found along the Cottonwood River which forms at the confluence of Swift River and Lightning Creek. In the mid-1800s, the development of the land in the Cottonwood Valley was crucial to supplying the miners and residents of Barkerville and the surrounding area with food for themselves as well as the animals used for transport and work. 1

A map showing the eventual pre-emption of the district lots in the Cottonwood Valley and Pine Grove. By 1874 John Boyd owned district lots 438, 437, 443, 387, 388, 379, 380 and 426. (Courtesy Quesnel & District Museum & Archives)

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In March of 1863, John Ryder, an overland freighter, pre-empted a 146-acre lot, District Lot 380, Cariboo, located on the north side of the Cottonwood River and in an apparent partnership with Allen Smith he paid for part of the adjoining District Lot 379 as well.

Smith worked to improve the Cottonwood property by building a small cabin. This was used as a shelter while they built the larger Cottonwood House, a roadhouse offering supper and accommodation with breakfast by September of 1864. The small cabin was then attached and used as an “annex” to the main house, with a parlor and a bedroom. The roadhouse was constructed of hand-hewn cottonwood logs with cob chinking. The log walls were squared and the corners of the house dovetailed.

Unfortunately, Allen Smith mortgaged Lots 379 and 380 to August Hoffmeister, on November 28, 1864, but was unable to pay the mortgage of $5,000 by the due date of July 1, 1865, and the ranch was forfeited to Hoffmeister. However, Hoffmeister & Co. was highly indebted and by September of 1866 was ordered to convey the title to the Bank of British Columbia. 

John Boyd stands next to a buggy in front of Cottonwood House along with another man and 3 other women. (Courtesy Marion Watson-Naomi Randall Collection, P2010.14.46 QDMA)

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The Cottonwood Ranch remained under the supervision of the Bank of British Columbia as a series of lease and mortgage holders attempted to make a profit from the roadhouse operations, until it was purchased Jochum Lindhard in 1871. Lindhard fell ill with a kidney ailment, and unfortunately passed away on June 9, 1873. On November 27, 1873 the mortgage owed by Lindhard on Cottonwood was released and his widow Caroline obtained clear title of Cottonwood House. 

On March 20, 1874 John Boyd purchased the Cottonwood Ranch for $5,000 bringing a period of stability to the property as it remained in the ownership of the Boyd family for the next seventy-seven years.

John Boyd moved to the Cariboo region in 1862 from California and proved to be a skilled businessman. By 1871, he owned and operated Cold Spring House, a roadhouse near the Cariboo Wagon Road and in 1872, John purchased and then closed the Pine Grove roadhouse, using the property for hay production and logging. With the purchase of the Cottonwood Ranch in 1874, John had land holdings of close to 1000 acres.

While John, his wife Jenet and family lived at Cold Spring House he left the management of Cottonwood House to his brother-in-law, John Fleming with help on a seasonal basis from Angus McPhail. There was a steady demand for the production from the Boyd land holdings, especially hay. 



This portrait of John Boyd was taken by Louis Blanc of the L.A. Blanc Photographic Gallery, Barkerville B.C. (P2455 Barkerville Historic Town Archives, circa1870)

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By 1884, John and Jenet had seven children all born at Cold Spring House; John Charles (1869), William Henry (1872), Ida Grace (1875), Henry Thomas (1877), Albert Edward (1879), Alice Jane (1881), and Agnes Maud (1884). John’s first child from a previous marriage, Mary Ann Boyd had arrived at Cold Spring House from California in 1876, to be with John and tutor the children. 2

In 1886, John made the decision to close Cold Spring House and move his growing family to Cottonwood House. Archibald Arthur was born at Cottonwood House in 1887, Chester Fleming on the San Juan Islands in 1889, and the last-born Walter Harold at Cottonwood House in 1891. John Fleming moved to Cold Spring House and took over the farming operations.

Under the management skills of John Boyd, Cottonwood House established itself as a reputable roadhouse and there was a steady flow of freighters and visitors including those travelling by stagecoach, such as the government road superintendent Joseph St. Laurent, John Bowron the government agent, merchants John Peebles and J.B. Nason, Alexander Locke with the B.C. Express Company, Judge Cornwall, Dentist Jones and Dr. Hugh Watt of Barkerville.3

The Boyd Family members (with their age in brackets); Back row L-R: Alfred Carson, Unidentified male youth. Third row L-R: John Charles Boyd (26), Alice Boyd (14), Mary Anne Carson (née Boyd) (34), Albert Boyd (16). Second row L-R: Agnes Boyd (11), John Boyd (61), Archie Boyd (8), Jenet Boyd (44). Front row L-R: Walter Boyd (4), Chester Boyd (6), Family dog. Missing are William (23) and Henry (18) (Courtesy Evelyn Warren’s Original, P2000.25.11 QDMA)

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Cottonwood House had 12 rooms including a front room, dining room, sitting room, large kitchen, boarding room and 7 bedrooms, and was able to accommodate the family, cooks, ranch hands, and overnight guests.4

(P5975.181.1 QDMA (Donor Unknown), Circa1895-1901)

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Over the decades, buildings were added to the farm to include a horse barn, milk house (no longer standing), double barn, warehouse, chicken coop and root cellar. Goods of almost every description were sold in the general store, to both residents of the area and travelers and a post office was established helping to make the farm a focal point of the community.

The formal dining area had a large table and chairs to seat up to 20 people. John Boyd and one or two of the boys would go to the kitchen and bring in the food, which was served at the head of the table. The meals served were always the best available. Photo courtesy of Bob Michek and The Barkerville Heritage Trust

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On Sunday March 28th 1909, John Boyd passed away after 8 days of illness. His passing had a significant impact on the family and there were few changes to the Cottonwood ranch. 

This photo taken from the gravesite of Joseph Ross overlooking the Cottonwood ranch, shows Cottonwood House with a ladder on the roof, the warehouse, directly across from Cottonwood House, and two small log buildings on either side of the double barn. (Courtesy Barkerville Photograph collection, circa 1890)

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Although automobiles were starting to travel on the Cariboo Wagon Road, there were challenges for those driving an automobile in the deep ruts and slick mud. However, by the mid 1920’s the Boyd family business was feeling the impact of automated transportation and the reduced travel time resulting in only a short stop at Cottonwood House. By the mid 1930’s a gas pump was installed at Cottonwood House as an additional service to the automobiles travelling the road.   
The spring of 1930 brought some excitement to the Boyd family as they prepared for the visit of Lord and Lady Willingdon to Cottonwood House. While the depression of the 1930’s was wreaking havoc on the world economies, the development of the Cariboo Gold Quartz and Island Mountain hard rock gold mines in Wells resulted in a minor boom for the area. 
By the late 1930’s Jenet Boyd was 88 years old and her son Henry Boyd was appointed Administrator of the John Boyd Estate. On January 11, 1940, Janet passed away. Henry along with the help of his wife Eliza Jane Rawlings, sister Alice Boyd and her husband Jim Coreau kept the operation of the Cottonwood post office, farm and store going. 
In the spring of 1951 Harry sold the farm to Vagn and Anna Olrik. He continued to live at Cottonwood House, assisting them with the operation of the business and post office until the fall of 1952.

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Ursula LaLonde and Alvin Johnston, of the Cariboo Historical Society, Quesnel Branch, in the Boyd Ranch barn with their new acquisition, The Boyd Collection, includes artifacts, books and a painting. Note the Cariboo chair in the foreground, also referred to as the “Cariboo tipper”. (Courtesy Cariboo Historical Society Quesnel Branch, QDMA, circa late 1950’s)

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THE PROVINCE OF BRITISH COLUMBIA

In 1961, the Province of British Columbia acquired lots 1 and 2, District Lot 380 Cariboo District PL. 11710 (Cottonwood House), to conserve the buildings at Cottonwood House as well as the majority of the John Boyd daybooks and ledgers spanning from 1863 to 1950.

In 1963 the site was designated Cottonwood House Historic Park. Over the next 15 years a program of research, concept planning, policy preparation and interpretation development occurred, with the goal to complete the Interpretive Centre by 1978. During this period of time the park was open to the public.

Photo courtesy of Bob Michek and The Barkerville Heritage Trust

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Throughout the 1980’s and 1990’s management of the site was contracted to various operators supported by the British Columbia Heritage Branch. Along with viewing the heritage buildings, visitors were provided with interpretive programing. In 1999 the park status was cancelled and re-designated “Cottonwood House Historic Park (Provincial Heritage Property).”
 

The regional manager of BC Heritage-Northern Interior Region, after becoming familiar with the Quesnel Secondary School Canadian Academy of Travel & Tourism program in 1999, proposed that School District 28 - Quesnel operate Cottonwood House Historic Site while providing a youth training program. In 2000, the School District became operators of Cottonwood House Historic Site, employing post-secondary and secondary students and providing training in tourism, wood product manufacturing and agriculture until 2014, when the contract ended. Operation of Cottonwood House was then transferred to The Barkerville Heritage Trust to be run by Barkerville Historic Town & Park staff. 

Since purchasing the property in 1961 to the present day, the provincial government has worked to retain the structural integrity of the heritage buildings on the property. In the words of Emelene Thomas, the author of an article called Cottonwood Picture in the Cariboo and Northern B.C. Digest, “Cottonwood House stands staunch, a landmark to all, steadily continuing its ordered existence through all times and weathers. It will stand substantial and homely during the long decades, an historic landmark, to be pointed out by generations yet to come.” 5


Photo courtesy of Bob Michek and The Barkerville Heritage Trust

 

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Additional information on Cottonwood House is available at the Barkerville Historic Town website and in the book ‘Cottonwood House Historic Site – 1864 to Present’ available at the online Barkerville Gift Store. 

Sources 

  1. Loretta Fogarty. “Cottonwood House Historic Site – 1864 to Present” 
    Barkerville Historic Town & Park and Cottonwood House Historic Site (both governed by The Barkerville Heritage Trust), 2020, page 19.
  2. Loretta Fogarty. “Cottonwood House Historic Site – 1864 to Present” 
    Barkerville Historic Town & Park and Cottonwood House Historic Site (both governed by The Barkerville Heritage Trust), 2020, page 34.
  3. Loretta Fogarty. “Cottonwood House Historic Site – 1864 to Present” 
    Barkerville Historic Town & Park and Cottonwood House Historic Site (both governed by The Barkerville Heritage Trust), 2020, page 42.
  1. Loretta Fogarty. “Cottonwood House Historic Site – 1864 to Present” 
    Barkerville Historic Town & Park and Cottonwood House Historic Site (both governed by The Barkerville Heritage Trust), 2020, page 43.
  2. Emelene Thomas. “Cottonwood Picture.” Cariboo and Northern BC Digest. Part 1: Winter 1947: 90-99. Part 2: Spring 1948: 22-25 & 88-93​​​​​​​